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Bleeding
Definition Bleeding is the staining or seeping through of a soluble dye from the substrate through the top coat color. Bleeding is normally observed as spots or patches of discoloration in the top coat, (often in red or yellow colors). Excess peroxide hardener in a polyester filler can also cause similar marks due to a chemical reaction with the color pigments.
Causes
- 1] Soluble pigments or dyes from the old paintwork are dissolved in the solvent of the repair materials, and change in the shade at the surface.
- 2] Bleeding can also occur when excessive peroxide from a polyester filler reacts with the pigments in the repair materials causing a yellow-brown stain mark. Blue and green colors are particular vulnerable this problem.
- 3] Residues from Bitumen or Tar if not cleaned off thoroughly.
How to avoid
- 1] Carry out a solvent test to check if a soluble dye exists. Soluble dyes have not existed in any Glasurit paintwork or repair paints for many years.
- 2] Only use the recommended quantity of peroxide hardener when mixing polyester products and mix the hardener in evenly and thoroughly. Never allow the colored hardener to look streaky in the filler when applied.
- 3] Before painting ensure all contamination, especially bitumen and tar deposits, are thoroughly removed.
Repair To repair a bleed-through area, the whole area should be isolated with an appropriate sealer e.g. Glasurit Stonechip Primer 1109-1240/6, and Glasurit EP Primer 801-1552. If the bleed through is severe then the paint layers should be removed back to a sound substrate and then refinished with the correct primer and top-coat process.
Blistering
Definition In damp weather, a small quantity of water vapor is absorbed into the paint structure and is then evaporated again in dry conditions (osmosis). This process is normal and does not harm a well constructed finishing process. However, poor processing of the primers will leave hygroscopic/water soluble substances (salts) behind as contaminants. These cause a local concentration of a salt water solution which lift the paint film into water blisters. Blisters can occur in many sizes, patterns and frequency and can form between individual layers or beneath the entire film build. In dry weather most blisters will temporarily recede.
Causes
- 1] The surface to be painted (filler, bare metal etc) was not cleaned thoroughly. Contamination from salt residue, eg dirty sanding water or hand sweat, was left on the surface under or between coats. The blister pattern may indicate the cause (beading = wipe marks, prints = finger or hand prints).
- 2] Wet sanding operations (particularly with polyester based products) without sufficient time to allow water to evaporate before application of top-coats.
How to avoid
- 1] Thoroughly clean the areas to be painted with clean water. Change sanding and cleaning water regularly, especially in winter when vehicle paintwork in for repair is covered in salt. Consider changing to dry sand operations to avoid water absorption when sanding. Finally (depending on the substrate) clean the area with Glasurit Cleaner 700-1 and Glasurit Wax and Grease Remove 541-5 or Glasurit Panel Cleaner 360-4.
- 2] Allow sufficient time for water to evaporate when wet sanding (circa 2 hours at 20ºC). Dry sand where possible especially with polyester based products.
- 3] Ensure booth is dry before painting. In cold damp conditions run the booth on bake before any paint processing operations.
Repair Sand down and remove the paint layers back to a sound substrate. Be prepared to strip the areas back to bare metal where necessary. Refinish with the correct choice of primers fillers and top-coats.
Chalking
Definition
Decomposition of the binding agents at the paint surface resulting in the release of the color pigments. Reds and yellow colors turn whitish and dark blues turn bronze.
Causes
- 1] Choice of wrong hardener or amount.
- 2] Color coats applied to thick.
- 3] Weathering (aggressive environmental pollution such as sulphur dioxide and nitrous oxides in combination with high humidity and exposure to UV radiation).
- 4] Poor after-care of the paintwork.
- 5] Poor repair to a previously chalking paint finish.
How to avoid
- 1] Always use recommended hardener and mixing ratio.
- 2] Always keep to the recommended film thickness and number of coats. For colors with poor covering power (yelllow's reds etc), use a colored surfacer (as used by OEM Automotive Industry) such as Glasurit HS Tinting Filler 285-95.
- 3]+4] Regular paintwork maintenance (see chapter "Aftercare of Paintwork").
- 5] Ensure chalked paintwork is removed back to a sound substrate before refinishing. Use base coat + clear lacquer system where possible.
Repair Try to polish out the problem using Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish. If the chalked surfaces do not respond to this action, or if the problem returns within a short period (a few weeks), then the damaged paintwork must be removed back to a sound substrate and refinished.
Clouding
Definition Spots or stripes of light and dark patches, mainly seen in metallic finishes.
Causes
- 1] Uneven spray application.
- 2] Flash-off between coats or prior to application of clear coat too short.
- 3] Color coat applied too heavy or too light.
How to avoid
- 1] Application must be even and correctly overlapped with the previous gun stroke.
- 2] Ensure correct flash-off times are observed between coats.
- 3] Apply the basecoat as recommended in the technical information.
Repair If clouding occurs during the application of the basecoat, compensate by spraying over the affected areas using the correct technique. If clouding occurs after the clear lacquer has been applied, allow to dry, sand down, and repaint, using the correct technique.
When spraying 90-Line water-based base-coats, please note the ALTERNATIVE SPRAY TECHNIQUE:
- - With HVLP Spray-gun spray wet-on-wet without intermediate flash-off.
- - Keep spray gun closer to object: 1st coat approx. 10-15 cm and second coat approx. 20-25 cm.
- - Overlap each coat in succession.
Cratering
Definition
Circular recesses with a diameter from 0,5 to 3 mm. The problem may range in appearance from a very flat recess in the top-coat to a deep fault which extends back to the substrate. If incorrectly repaired, the original craters may reappear as a more flat recess
Causes Mainly: Oil, grease, wax and silicon residue. (e.g. polishes containing silicon):
- 1] Humans - Marks from clothing, rubber gloves, skin and hair lotions.
- 2] Spray Booth - Lubricants from moving parts, release agents from plastic parts, hoses and sealants, inadequate oil and water trap bleeding, dirty ceiling and floor filters.
- 3] Paint Material - Incorrect use of paint additives (Anti-silicon additive), unsuitable thinner/hardener impurities from poor transportation or storage.
- 4] Workpeice - Residues from release agents (on plastic parts) slip additives, solder flux, bitumen and oil from insulating mats.
- 5] Paint processing ancilliarie - Release agents from new sponges, unsuitable cleaning agents or abrasives, adhesives from tapes.
- 6] Environment - Intake of polluted air from other work areas (polishes, oil sprays, release agents, fine dusts etc)
Sealant and insulation dusts from the building.
How to avoid
Points 1 to 6 give the reasons for many of the causes of cratering in paint finishes, from which it is possible to take precautions to avoid the the contamination. In principle, we would recommend that only silicon-free products are used in the vicinity of the paint shop, and substrates are always cleaned thoroughly.
Repair Thoroughly sand the paint build back to a sound substrate. Repaint using the correct choice of primers and top-coats. If it is necessary to repaint over a paint layer where silicon induced craters are clearly present, we recommend the use of Glasurit Anti-Silicon Additive 580-100 to be applied.
Crazing
Definition Cracks of various lengths, widths and depths.
Causes
- 1] Film build faults on TPA Thermoplastics Acrylic substrates (e.g. the use of polyester filler, wash primer or synthetic enamels directly onto TPA finishes). These will cause shrinkage of the TPA film resulting in cracking.
- 2] Repair paint layers not cured or hard (too little or no hardener).
- 3] Film Build Faults:
- Wash primer coated with polyester materials. - Synthetic enamel or nitro-cellulose mixtures repainted too quick.
- 4] Cracks on plastic parts.
- see chapter "Faults in Plastic Painting".
- 5] Severe stress to the paint surface by UV radiation and/or extreme temperature fluctuations.
- 6] Flash off time too short in wet-on-wet systems.
- 7] Total film build far too high.
How to avoid
- 1] See finishing system S8 in tech manual - Refinish of Thermoplastic Acrylic Paintwork.
- 2] Ensure correct hardener quantities.
- 3] Ensure correct system builds and processes.
- 4] Plasticise materials - see chapter "Faults in Plastic Painting".
- 5] No cases are known with any current range Glasurit repair products.
- 6] Ensure correct flash-off times are observed.
Repair
Sand down the paint film build back to a sound substrate. Ensure all traces of cracks are thoroughly removed. Refinish using suitable primers and top-coats.
Crinkling
Definition Swelling and Lifting of the substrate layers when new paint is applied. Problem may appear during the painting process or on drying.
Causes
- 1] Flash-off time too long when working wet-on-wet with some 2K-Products (recoating during Gel-phase).
- 2] Recoating solvent-sensitive layers (NC/ TPA) with the wrong repair materials or when layers are too thick.
- 3] Coats used as a sealer are not thick enough (sprayed too thin or when sanded down too far).
- 4] Substrate layers not thoroughly dried.
How to avoid
- 1] Always keep to the recommended Flash-off times.
- 2] Carry out a Solvent Test, use the correct repair process and use the correct film thickness.
- 3] Use the correct Film Thickness as advised in the product technical data.
- 4] Ensure that the substrate is dry. (Re-bake or use IR lamps).
Repair
Sand down the paintwork back to a sound substrate. Rework using suitable Primer and Top Coats. (If necessary be prepared to strip back to a sound substrate).
Dust Contamination
Definition Usually small, irregular particles in the paint film caused by foreign matter (e.g. dust/dirt) which can occur in different sizes, shapes, types and patterns.
Causes
- 1] Poor cleaning of substrate prior to painting.
- 2] Lint containing overalls or clothes.
- 3] Spray booth dust problem due to dirty filters causing incorrect air supply, extraction and pressure.
- 4] Intake of contaminated air from outside the spray booth (polishing residues, fine dust etc.).
How to avoid
- 1] Thorough cleaning before application of new paints.
- 2] Use lint-free overalls and cloth.
- 3] Ensure regular maintenance and filter changes of the booth.
- 4] Ensure polishing/finishing areas are away from the paint shop and separated by filtered and ventilated systems.
Repair For minor faults, polish with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish any standard deep gloss polish. For severe faults, sand out the problem and repaint.
Edge Marking
Definition Swelling or sweated edges showing in the top-coat around feather-edge sanded old paintwork
Causes
- 1] Insufficient drying of filler and/or knifing stopper areas.
- 2] Swelling layer in the old paint at a feather-edge sanded area where the layer of filler meets the old paint or metal. Or the feathered edge was not fine enough.
- 3] Swelling of works primer on new/spare parts.
- 4] Wrong process used over TPA or NC old finishes.
- 5] Sanded areas not isolated properly before base-coat and clear processing.
How to avoid
- 1] Ensure drying times are observed. Infra Red drying reduces the chances of edge marking by drying the lower layers first.
- 2]+3] Before painting, carry out a solvent test with an Acrylic or NC Thinner to check for solvent sensitivity. When sanding ensure that the feather edge is fine enough on the layer being sanded (P80/P150) on stopper/filler, P240 on primer filler see technical information). Do not apply knifing fillers over sensitive paintwork (apply to bare metal only and leave a metal edge). Apply spray filler in light coats to isolate. Use paint with mild solvent properties (e.g. Glasurit Water Thinnable Filler 76-71.
- 4] Observe correct mixing ratios.
- 6] Isolate sanded base with light coats of spray filler.
Repair Sand affected areas smooth and flat. Respray with the correct primer and/or top-coat.
Faults in Painting Plastics - Cracking
Definition Break or crack lines in the paint finish after mechanical stress. In severe cases the plastic may also crack. This problem is normally associated with soft flexible parts (e.g. PUR real spoilers).
Causes
- 1] Insufficient or failure to use a flexible additive to the paint. E.g. Glasurit Soft Face Additive 521-111.
- 2] Total paint thickness far to high.
How to avoid 1] The amount of Glasurit Softface Additive 521-111 added to the paint depends on the degree of flexibility required and whether the plastic is rigid (hard) or soft (flexible). Soft (spongy plastics are usually PUR Foam (e.g. rear spoilers) and can be easily indented with the thumb. All other plastics are rigid (hard). In principle, the filler, solid top coat or clear lacquer coats must be plasticised. Base-coats in a two coat system do not require softface additive. Hard/Rigid Plastics: Mix the paint 4:1 by volume with 521-111 before adding hardener. Soft/Flexible Plastics: Mix the paint 2:1 by volume with 521-11 before adding hardener.
Faults in Painting Plastics - Flaking
Definition Easy removal of the total film build from the plastic substrate.
Causes
- 1] Insufficient cleaning of the plastic substrate.
- 2] Insufficient sanding of the plastic substrate.
- 3] Unsuitable cleaner or degreaser used, or wrongly used
- 4] Plastic part not tempered before painting.
- 5] No plastic primer/adhesion-promoter used.
How to avoid
- 1] Wash the part thoroughly with a mild detergent solution to remove any water soluble release agents. Thoroughly clean the plastic with Glasurit Universal Cleaner 541-30 to remove solvent soluble release agents. Where plastic is very dirty or textured, clean with the assistance of a sanding pad. Clean the surface before and after sanding.
- 2] Use recommended sanding grades. Where an irregular shaped part is to be sanded (e.g. radiator grill, bumper etc.) use a sanding pad.
- 3] Re-clean with Glasurit Cleaner 541-30.
- 4] "Tempering" means sweating out the release agents by heating (1-2 hours at a maximum)
- 5] Use Glasurit 2-Pack Plastic Primer 934-200 or 1-Pack Plastic Primer 934-0 as per Finishing System S10.
Repair Remove the flaking paintwork completely and refinish as per the Glasurit Finishing Process V3. Do not use a normal paint stripper or the plastic could be damaged or destroyed.
Faults in Painting Plastics - Pinholes
Definition Small holes in the paint surface due to pores and bubbles in the plastic. This problem often appears on the soft flexible parts (e.g. PUR rear spoilers) and GRP fibre-glass moldings.
Causes
- 1] Expansion faults or foam holes in the plastics from production.
How to avoid
- 1] Thoroughly check the plastic part for pores before painting and where necessary use the pore filler wiping process (see Technical Information sheet for 872-1).
Repair Porous paintwork can, in principal, be repaired using the pore filler wiping process (sand down, porewipe, refinish). Note: Too many pores in the plastic will make it very difficult to paint. It is important to check the plastic for pores thoroughly before painting.
Industrial Fall - Out
Definition Spots of corrosion on top of the paint surface
Causes Industrial Dust Corrosive deposits from chimneys of foundries and ironworks. Rail and road chippings. Iron particles, which mainly occur on top flat surfaces, oxidize in moisture and humidity and then attack the paint surfaces.
Spark Damage Ash from overheated electricity cables on tramways and railways. Spark damage from welding and grinding operations. The hot and sometimes glowing, particles of iron burn into the paint surface.
How to avoid
Immediate removal of the metal particles and regular maintenance by polishing and waxing will help to avoid the problem. Where welding or grinding work is being carried out, ensure that all vehicles adjacent to or near the work are fully covered to protect them.
Repair Use a metal dust remover and finish off by polishing the surface with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602. If the metal particles are deeply etched into the pain surface, sand down the affected areas with P1200 and then polish with Glasurit Fine Polish Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish.
Loss of Adhesion
Definition Loss of adhesion can manifest itself in 2 different ways. First - where a total lack of adhesion occurs below the entire paint film. Second - where a lack of adhesion occurs between coats.
Causes Loss of adhesion can occur when:
- 1] Substances which can cause adhesion failure are left on the substrate (e.g. silicon, oil, grease, wax, rust, sanding residue, etc.)
- 2] An unsuitable primer or surfacer was applied to the substrate.
- 3] Insufficient sanding was carried out to the substrate.
- 4] Primer or base coats were applied too dry or too thin.
- 5] Poor drying conditions.
How to avoid To avoid the result of loss of adhesion to the substrate, always use the correct type of primer and/or surfacer for the substrate (e.g. for aluminum, steel or plastic etc.). Only apply primers as per specification (see Technical Data Sheets or Tech Data on the cans.) Do not apply coats too thick. Thoroughly clean the substrate before application of paint materials.
Repair
Remove all coats with poor adhesion. Thoroughly sand and clean the substrate. Repaint using the correct choice of primer and/or surfacer and/or top-coats.
Loss of Gloss
Definition Matt or matted paint surfaces.
Causes
- 1] Paint swelling.
- 2] Coats too thick.
- 3] Weathering (results of the action of Sulphur dioxide/nitrous oxide combined with moisture and/or severe UV radiation).
- 4] Wrong amount of hardener in the mix.
- 5] Poor or incorrect paint-work aftercare.
- - Incorrect polishing (polish too aggressively, or in direct sunlight)
- - Weathered surfaces due to poor aftercare maintenance.
- - Car wash brushes too coarse or worn.
- - Car shampoo too strong (e.g. using washing up liquid).
- 6] New repair work weathered too early. Thick coats or fresh paintwork are sensitive to condensation (below dew point).
- 7] Insufficient air circulation during spraying and/or drying operations.
How to avoid
- 1] See chapter on "Swelling".
- 2] Always keep to the film builds as recommended. With poor covering top coats (yellow and reds) use Glasurit HS Tinting Surfacer 285-95.
- 3] Ensure regular paintwork aftercare.
- 4] Always keep to the recommended mixing ratios.
- 5] See chapter on "Aftercare of Paintwork".
- 6] Always keep to the recommended coat thickness and drying times.
- 7] Check air circulation, replace floor and ceiling filters if necessary. If in doubt, consult you spray booth manufacturer.
Repair Try to polish out the problem with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602, and finish with any standard deep gloss polish. If the gloss cannot be restored, then remove back to a sound substrate and refinish.
Metamerism
Definition Metamerism is the effect where a color that appears the same shade to a second color under certain conditions, may look totally different under different conditions. The most common existence of this problem is where two colors match in daylight, but appear different under artificial light (especially sodium street lighting).
Causes Apart from the individual nature and the many variations of human color perception, there a various other reasons for the occurrence of metamerism.
- 1] The pigment and/or base-color composition of the repair paint does not correspond to the pigment composition of the original paint.
- 2] The mixing of an unknown color shade (where no mixing formula is available) without checking the shade under different light sources before use.
- 3] By tinting a color without reference to the base colors used in the color formulation, i.e. tinting with a base color which is not part of the original color formulation.
How to avoid For previous unknown color shades, metamerism can only be avoided with the use of electronic color measurement. For known shades (where a mixing formula is available), the shade must be checked under various light sources. Tint only with base colors which form part of the mixing formula and/or as specified in the tinting table.
Repair Slight variations in color due to metamerism can be overcome by blending the color into the surrounding panels. For severe metamerism, the color shade must be re-mixed or reassessed by electronic color measurement.
Orange - Peel Effect
Definition Poor surface texture of the paint similar to the surface texture of an orange skin.
Causes
- 1] Spray gun held too far from object.
- 2] Spray pressure too low (poor atomization).
- 3] Paint film too thin.
- 4] Viscosity to high.(paint too thick).
- 5] Hardener and/or thinner too fast for the conditions or size of object.
- 6] Spray nozzle too small.
- 7] Flash-off time too long between coats.
How to avoid
- 1] Keep spray gun within the recommended distance from the object.
- 2] Ensure spray pressure is as recommended.
- 3] Always apply wet coats.
- 4] Adjust paint viscosity as recommended.
- 5] Choose correct hardener and thinner (> temperature table).
- 6] See tech data for correct choice of spray nozzle.
- 7] Allow a long enough flash-off between coats.
Repair If the problem is only slight, sand down with P1200, polish with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish.
Overspray
Definition
Fine dry atomized spray droplets from the painting process stuck to the surface, or droplets that have not been absorbed by the paint film.
Causes
- 1] Poor spray absorption due to the incorrect hardener and/or thinner for the painting conditions or the size of the object which is being sprayed.
- 2] Inadequate overlap of spray pattern when spraying.
How to avoid
- 1] Select the correct choice of hardener and thinner to suit the temperature of the workshop and the size of the object/vehicle which is to be painted. (see temperature table).
- 2] Ensure adequate overlap of previous gun strokes when spraying.
Repair Polish out with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and any standard deep gloss polish.
Paint Damage Identification with the Sand Through Method
The sand through method is a simple way to diagnose paint damage more accurately on site and therefore determine the best repair method required. The various layers and products used, are carefully sanded through in one bad area back to the bare substrate (metal or plastic etc.) This allows all of the coats and layers to be clearly identified, their individual film thickness assessed and the fault to be highlighted.
The sand through is best carried out by first sanding with P240 back to the substrate. The second stage is to re-sand the same area with as fine a paper as practical (e.g. P600). Finally the area could be polished with a fine polishing paste in order to allow to clear and precise observation of the coats and the problem. The following types of paint damage can be easily assessed using this method.
Blistering (see also Chapter "Blistering"). Blisters are easily detected, showing as different colored spots as the top coat is removed revealing the layer below.
Crazing ((see also Chapter "Crazing"). The depth of a crack in the paint layers can easily be detected in the sanded through areas. To assist even further, wipe Guide Coat into the cracks and allow to dry before sanding and the contrast will ease the identification.
Solvent Boil (see also Chapter "Solvent Boil"). This type of defect is often mistaken for dirt inclusions because of the small size of the defect. By sanding through, the defect can be easily identified as small cavities in the layer concerned.
Cratering see also Chapter "Cratering"). Cratering shows as the flat recess or dimple in old paintwork, or on the surface of new paintwork and can indicate a poor flow characteristic of the paint.
Pinholing (see also Chapter "Pinholing"). Pinholes will appear as small dots of a different color than the top-coat and originate from faults such as bubbles or pores in the substrate.
Swirl Marks/Swelling Swirl marks will appear as color filled lines in the primer or surfacer in the sanded through layer. The pattern and size of the lines will indicate the method of sanding used (hand or machine) and the grit size of paper used.
Number of Paint Layers of the Old Paintwork
The layers of paint, like the rings in a tree trunk, are exposed by sanding. With this method it is possible to say exactly how many coats of paint have been applied to the car and whether the risk of overloading on repainting is possible.
Pinhole Marks
Definition Small holes or craters in the new paintwork as a result of solvent boil not removed properly from the substrate (old finish).
Causes
- 1] Solvent Boil or aeration of the old paint finish.
How to avoid
- 1] Either sand out the holes/craters completely or, where possible, fill the holes.
Repair Pinholes or small craters can only be repaired successfully by thorough sanding of the substrate or by filling the areas if practical or desirable.
Polishing - Marks
Definition Very fine lines in the paint surface with a low gloss greyish appearance from polishing paste and/or cloth.
Causes
- 1] The sensitivity of the paint surface to polishing marks is greater when: the paint has not been allowed to dry for long enough; the film thickness is too high; the incorrect choice or amount of hardener has been used.
- 2] Excessive pressure has been exerted on the polishing machine, (polish burnt in).
- 3] Polishing machine tilted during polishing process.
- 4] Wrong polishing head.
- 5] Aggressive/coarse polishing paste.
- 6] Polishing when the painted surface is too hot from the oven or in direct sun light.
How to avoid
- 1] Ensure only the correct film thickness, drying times and choice of hardener and thinner are observed. Before polishing, allow the paint layers to dry sufficiently (rebake using Infra Red if necessary).
- 2+3+4] Do not press too hard or tilt the polishing head and use the correct head for the application being carried out.
- 5] Do not use too coarse a polishing paste.
- 6] Ensure that the paint surface is cool and/or not in the sun.
Repair Polish out the problem with any standard deep gloss polish. If the problem is more severe, first use Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602.
Poor Covering
Definition Substrate showing through the top-coat. Old paintwork, spot primer or areas of filler are visible through the top-coat.
Causes
- 1] Substrate not colored to similar even shade.
- 2] Poor covering shade (e.g. no heavy metal pigment).
- 3] Top-coat over-thinned.
- 4] Top-coat not stirred properly before use.
- 5] Paint coats were applied to thin.
How to avoid
- 1] A uniform substrate is required, especially when using translucent colors (e.g. when using 3-coat pearl effect systems)
- 2] For poor covering colors, use Glasurit HS Tinting Filler 285-95 (see example below).
- 3]+4] Stir base colors thoroughly and always thin as per specification.
- 5] Ensure sufficient film thickness and observe appropriate flash-off intervals between coats (solid colors: 50-70 microns, metallic basecoats: 15-25 microns). Alternative for water-based colors: - spray a thin adhesion coat - blow dry - finish with 2 spray coats.
Repair After drying, sand down and repaint.
Runs
Definition These are beads, droplets, larger globules or "curtain effect" in the paint finish on vertical surfaces.
Causes
- 1] Paint mixture too slow (hardener, thinner).
- 2] Viscosity too low (too thin).
- 3] Paint or object to be painted too cold.
- 4] Paint applied too thick.
- 5] Too many layers of paint.
- 6] Flash-off times too short.
- 7] Spray-gun held too close to the object.
- 8] Spray nozzle too large..
- 9] Irregular spraying action (jerky)
How to avoid Ensure that you always adapt the mixture of paint with the correct choice of hardener, thinner and viscosity to suit the temperature and size of paintwork. Ensure that the spray gun is clean and with the correct size of nozzle and air cap. Spray in an even pattern and do not hesitate with the gun or arc your spray pattern.
Repair See Profi Polishing System S23. When the paint has thoroughly dried, remove the run with the correct choice of sanding block/denibbing tool using a carbon block or wet sanding paper. The finer the paper, the less damage to the paint and the easier to polish. Polish with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish.
Rust
Definition Paint damage showing at the paint surface as irregular shaped blisters. If the blisters burst then corrosion spots are clearly visible (e.g. brown rust on steel or white rust on aluminum).
Causes
- 1] Mechanical damage to the paint surface (e.g. stone chips, scratches etc.) causing penetration of moisture to the underlying coats or metal substrate.
- 2] Poor preparation of the metal prior to painting. Poor cleaning (see also chapter on "Blistering"). Poor rust removal or removal of metal particles from the metal surface.
- 3] Flash rust formation on newly stripped or sand blasted metal surfaces.
- 4] Inadequate or missing cavity sealing. (Rust through from behind).
How to avoid
- 1] Stone chips or scratches should be repaired immediately.
- 2] Ensure through cleaning of all metal surfaces with Glasurit Metal Cleaner 360-4. Remove all rust by sand blasting to produce a bright metal substrate. Tin all welded seams.
- 3] Sandblasted areas should be primed immediately after blasting to avoid flash rusting
- 4] Seal and protect all cavities with the recommended products.
Repair Remove all paint and corrosion (rust) from the affected areas (by grinding, stripping, sandblasting). Thoroughly clean the area with Glasurit Panel Cleaner 360-4 and Glasurit Wax and Grease Remover 541-5. Prime bare metal as quick as possible to avoid flash rusting and build up with the recommended primers, surfacers and top-coats.
Sanding Marks
Definition Sanding swirl marks in the substrate show as lines in the top-coat.
Causes
- 1] The substrate was sanded with an abrasive that was too coarse. The depth of the scratch is too deep for the subsequent products to fill and hide.
- 2] The correct drying times for the primer or surfacer coats were not observed correctly. The swirl marks from the sanding operation are clearly visible due to the swelling of the primer at the time of painting and the shrinkage on drying.
- 3] Filler coats were applied too thin to cover the sanding marks in the substrate.
- 4] Poor sanding technique and/or sanding machine.
How to avoid
- 1] Use specified grade of sanding disc and/or paper (e.g. for stoppers use P80/P150, primer filler/filler P240 - refer to relevant tech data sheets).
- 2] Dry as per specification.
- 3] Observe specified film builds.
- 4] Always place sanding machine on surface of paintwork before starting the machine. For dry sanding of primer/filler coats, the eccentric stroke should not be greater than 5mm.
Repair Sand out the scratches and refinish with correct filler coat and/or top-coats as necessary.
Scratches from Car Wash
Definition Thread-like scratches which are often in parallel lines, and are particularly visible on darker colors. The surface can lose gloss and appear grey in shade.
Causes
- 1] Hand wash brush or car wash brushes which are too coarse, too dirty or very worn.
- 2] Pre-wash too dry with insufficient water.
- 3] Exposing fresh new paintwork to a car wash too early. The sensitivity to marking of a new paint surface is increased when the paint is not dried for long enough or when too thick a coat is applied or the incorrect hardener is used.
How to avoid
- 1] Use the correct clean brushes.
- 2] Thoroughly wet the car before brushing with plenty of water.
- 3] Avoid washing the car too quick after new paintwork (see chapter "Aftercare Of Paintwork"). Always keep to the recommended film thickness, drying times and mixing ratios with hardener.
Repair Polish out the problem with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish. Damage caused by car wash brushes cannot easily be prevented. Some cars are initially supplied with a scratch resistant clear-coat as standard. These cars may be repaired with Glasurit Scratch Resistant Clear 923-43, which could also be used on other vehicles.
Solvent Boil
Definition Blister-like surface defects due to solvent entrapment in the surface of the paint film.
Causes
- 1] Coats applied too thick.
- 2] Hardener and/or Thinner too fast.
- 3] Flash-off time between individual paint coats too short.
- 4] Flash-off time before baking or Infra-red drying too long.
- 5] Insufficient distance between IR lamps and object causing too high a temperature.
- 6] When using a wet-on-wet system, too short a flash off between coats.
How to avoid
- 1] Keep to recommended film builds.
- 2] Use correct choice of hardener and thinner for the working temperature available (see temperature table).
- 3] Keep to recommended flash-off times.
- 4] When using Glasurit products, no flash-off time is required before baking.
- 5] Keep to recommended distances and intensities when drying with Infra-red.
- 6] Keep to recommended film builds and flash off times between coats.
Repair For surface defects caused by solvent boiling, the paint coats must be sanded back to a sound substrate. Refinish using the correct choice of primers and top-coats. If the bubbles are not completely removed, pin-holes will appear when the next coats are applied (see chapter on "Pinholes").
Solvent Test
Before starting any repair painting, we recommend that a solvent test is carried out on a sanded area to reveal any layers (coats) which may be solvent sensitive and therefore require special attention or treatment to avoid problems.
Solvent-sensitive layers may be:
- - TPA (Thermo Plastic Acrylic)Paintwork.
- - Nitro-Cellulose Paintwork
- - Non-cured Synthetic Enamels.
- - Sensitive/Swelling Works applied Paintwork.
How to Test: After sanding, soak a piece of cloth in a strong thinner (e.g. 352-50 or 352-91) and rub over the sanded area. Watch closely for any signs of a reaction i.e. if one or more of the layers swells, lifts, rivels or goes sticky then it is solvent sensitive.
Having established that the coat is sensitive the correct method of repairing is essential to avoid problems.
When repairing such layers (coats), note the following:
- - sanding process should be finer and cover a wider area than normal.
- - Do not use any polyester filler over the feathered edge, leave bright metal showing between.
- - apply filler/surfacer and top-coats only in thin light coats and allow good flash-off times between coats.
- - do not use a wet-on-wet surfacer or system.
- - carefully dry with IR heaters (not over TPA substrates)
- - only use a suitable finishing process
- - where sensitive coats are found along with a high film build, strip back to bare metal.
Spotting Caused by External Influences
Definition Physical attack or discoloration of the paint surface due to various causes; the spots take various shapes, colors and sizes.
Causes
- 1] Tar - Appearance: Dirty, brown-black spots.
- 2] Industrial waste gas, e.g. SO2 - Appearance: Large area or spot area gone matt (see Chapter "Loss of Gloss")
- 3] Acid Rain - Appearance: No short-term visual effect, but can go matt.
- 4] Acid (Battery) - Appearance: Usually destroys the entire paint build down to the metal.
- 5] Tree Sap - Appearance: Thread-like and droplet shaped, sometimes clear and sometimes brown-yellow marks with swelling.
- 6] Insects - Appearance: Marks of insect bodies visible in the paint surface.
- 7] Insects Secretions - Appearance: e.g. Bee-droppings: long yellow-brown marks. Greenfly excrement: round, ring-like etchings.
- 8] Bird-Droppings - Appearance: Appearance can vary depending on the type of bird, weather conditions and duration of contamination.
How to avoid Remove all foreign bodies and matter from the paintwork as soon as possible. Wash off tar and tree sap using Glasurit Cleaner 541-5 or similar. Remove all other contamination with water. Regular paintwork aftercare is required (washing, polishing, wax protection etc see chapter "After Care of Vehicle Paintwork").
Repair Depends on the amount of damage. For damage to the top-coat, first attempt to polish out the problem using Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish. As a second, sand the area with P1200 and then repeat as for the first attempt. For major damage, sand down to a sound substrate and repaint as necessary.
Spraydust - Dust Clusters
Definition Paint dust particles from the spray environment in the new paint surface.
Causes
- 1] Impurities due to paint residue/encrustation of the spray gun, paint hoses and clothing.
- 2] Paint clusters (multi-colored particles) from the spray booth fall into the wet paintwork. These particles often form on the roof of the spray booth if the air changes are poor or the filters are dirty.
- 3] Paint spray contamination from adjacent paint jobs. How to avoid
- 1] Regularly clean spray guns, air hoses and clothing.
- 2] Regular maintenance of the spray booth and filter systems and ensure the booth manufacturers set the airflow correctly.
- 3] Keep jobs separate and masked from adjacent jobs.
Repair Minor faults may be rectified by polishing with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602, and any standard deep gloss polish. Severe faults will require sanding back and repainting.
Stone - Chips
Definition Mechanical damage to the paint surface and film build due to flying stones (e.g. chippings, stones and debris).
Causes Stones of various weight, shape and size are flung onto the paintwork at varying levels of energy (velocity and size). Depending on the impact force, the top-coats and also the primer/surfacer coats can be damaged down to the substrate (metal, plastic or electrocoat). Moisture may then penetrate the paint film and further flaking can occur.
How to avoid There is no total protection against stone chips. Areas most greatly at risk can be given treatment of additional anti-chip and underbody protection coatings for extra protection to avoid corrosion of the substrate. (e.g. Glasurit Stone Chip Primer 1109-1240/6 and/or the use of Glasurit Soft Face Additive 521-111 in the top-coats or clear lacquer to increase to increase the flexibility). (4 parts by vol paint or clear to 1 part 521-111 before adding the hardener and thinner).
Repair Stone chips should be touched-up immediately. Sand out and build up with the correct primer and/or top-coats.
Swelling
Definition Very slow evaporation of residual solvent from a freshly painted paint process. This causes widespread swelling or sweating of the paint surface. Problem can lead to a reduction of gloss (hazing) and in small areas, edge zone marking (see chapter on "Edge-Zone Marking").
Causes
- 1] Drying time too short between layers in a complete process and/ or too high a film thickness of the filler coat within the process.
- 2] Filled areas are too thin or are not sufficiently isolated.
- 3] Swelling of solvent-sensitive substrates.
- 4] Incorrect quantity of hardener in Body-Filler or Filler coats.
- 5] Incorrect process when finishing over NC or TPA substrates.
How to avoid
- 1] Always keep to recommended film thickness and drying times for each product. Where possible dry with infrared as this dries from the lower layers first.
- 2] Apply isolating coat in sufficient film thickness (circa 50 µm).
- 3] Before painting, carry out a solvent test with acrylic or NC Thinners.Sand feathered edges and surfaces finely (Body Filler with P80/ P150, Primer Filler with P240 - refer to technical information sheets). Do not apply Body Filler over old paintwork which is solvent sensitive (better to apply to bare metal). Apply sprayfillers in thin spray coats and allow a good flash-off between coats (to isolate). Use products with mild solvent properties (Waterbased fillers).
- 4] Only use specified mixing ratios.
- 5] Use Finishing Process S8.
Repair Thoroughly sand back, or remove the affected area. Refinish with the correct primer and/ or Top Coats.
Water Marking
Definition Water Spotting normally appears as light, whitish circular spots on the paint surface caused by the drying of a solution of water combined with mineral salts. The inner areas are normally intact, whilst the outer edge are often slightly raised.
Causes
- 1] Insufficient drying of fresh paintwork prior to being left in the rain.
- 2] Poor drying of paint due to thick coat application.
- 3] Incorrect hardener or quantity of hardener.
How to avoid Ensure all fresh paints are applied using correct hardener, correct mixing ratio and the number of coats (film thickness) is correct and not excessive.
Repair If the damage is minor, first try washing with clean water; if this does not cure the problem polish with Glasurit Fine Polishing Paste 562-1602 and finish with any standard deep gloss polish. For severe damage, sand the surface, ensure it is thoroughly cured (see chapter "Solvent Test") and repaint.
Wrinkling
Definition Textured paint surface with uneven wave type formation that occurs when the paint surface dries faster than the substrate coats. This problem only occurs in the presence of synthetic enamels.
Causes
- 1] Synthetic Enamel applied too thick.
- 2] Little or no drier solution added.
- 3] Unfavorable drying conditions (e.g. shop temperature too high).
How to avoid
- 1] Keep to recommended number of coats and film build.
- 2] Ensure drier solution is added as part of the mixing formulation.
- 3] Ensure correct drying conditions (not too warm).
Repair For minor faults, dry the surface thoroughly, sand back to a hardened layer and then refinish. For severe wrinkling faults, strip the entire paint layers with paint stripper or by mechanical bead blasting and refinish to specification. |